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2G rear calipers and clutch cylinders

 
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BarryG
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:29 pm    Post subject: 2G rear calipers and clutch cylinders Reply with quote

darn I hate them. I can't get the e-brake lever out of the caliper. The shop manual only says to mark the location of the lever to some shaft and remove it. It doesn't say how.

I removed the spring and rotated it so it would clear the spring perch. Thereafter it would not budge.

I've been getting the low brake fluid light. I bought front pads (nice ones). I pulled wheels off. Plenty of meat left on the front two and the left rear. I did not check the right rear.

I am doubting the need because lately I've been having a minor problem putting the car in first at stops and other gears at other times. If, however, I push to the floor it seems a bit better. The flip side is that the pedal is still mighty strong or my leg is getting weaker.

SO! Not having any daylight left I'm going to assume a slow leak in the clutch system somewhere. No leaks seen on any wheels. If it is the slave it will be the second slave I've installed on the car. Ditto the master. I hate installing either.

Please give opinions.

At least I've had a bit of success with the Nova.

B
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FelipeT
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you replacing your clutch hydraulic cylinders, or just rebuilding them? If you are replacing them, what are you using?

My father's '97 Accord has a similar setup to the Probe (remote reservoir for the clutch master, instead of sharing it with the brake, so it's not exactly the same, but similar.) He took it in for some extended emissions warranty work and they recommended the replacement of both parts. We just went with OEM replacements and had no problems. Installation was probably about as much of a PITA as it is on the Probe.
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BarryG
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

O'reilly rebuilt stuff. I think.

Isn't it kind of nuts to have one bolt/nut on each side of the firewall??

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FelipeT
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryG wrote:
O'reilly rebuilt stuff. I think.

Isn't it kind of nuts to have one bolt/nut on each side of the firewall??

OK, I don't have any experience with their stuff, but it might be OK. I know that the BrakeWare stuff that AutoZone carries is complete garbage. The Fenco reman stuff is pretty shoddy, too.

I think that I may seriously just go for OEM stuff on the PGT if I have to replace it. The way I see it, the first set lasted me 15 years thus far, so it's got a pretty good track record.

I think that the strangest thing about the mounting is that it isn't the first time I've seen a setup like that.
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BarryG
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't recall, though I could be wrong, ever having a problem with the Rio's clutch hydraulics. The clutch face was very worn however.

Here's a kicker in the nuts; my brake fluid level is NOT low. It is normal.

Barry
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FelipeT
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryG wrote:
I don't recall, though I could be wrong, ever having a problem with the Rio's clutch hydraulics. The clutch face was very worn however.

Here's a kicker in the nuts; my brake fluid level is NOT low. It is normal.

I'm still on all the original hydraulics on my '95. The opposite is true for the Stanza. I think that the only thing left on that car which is still original is the brake lines and the front calipers. Everything other than hard lines on the clutch system has been replaced. Twice. First with BrakeWare crap, next with OEM.

I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, but I think that every Probe will illuminate the brake light even when the reservoir reads normal. I've already run into that on my car several times.

So, any idea if you have a warranty on the parts that you installed. Hydraulics don't usually have a great warranty, but it might be worth looking into.

Anyway, if you look the slave and master over and don't find any leaks, you may try to bleed the clutch to see if that helps with getting into first.
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BarryG
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have not had the brake lamp problem on the Rio, the blue GT, or the green GT until now.
Never had it on either of our 1Gs.
Don't have a problem getting into first (or 2nd or 4th or 5th) until after I've been doing a bunch of driving. Even then if I'm just patient and careful to FULLY depress the pedal its semi-okay. The Rio shifted like butter. darn I miss it.

Barry
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FelipeT
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More and more, I'm convinced that bleeding the clutch might be the answer. If not, it may just be in the transmission. What kind of gear oil are you running?

Oddly enough, I don't recall the last time I bled mine. Currently, I'm running Redline MTL. I've never had a problem.
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BarryG
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geez, I don't remember. I do remember I found the name brand oil at NAPA and that I called the 800 number on the label to make sure that the sulfer listed on the label was at a "safe" level for our cars.

Barry
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FelipeT
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe you should check your gear oil level, too? How long ago did you change the fluid?
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BarryG
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it has been two years. For a while there I thought I had a leak where the driver's side axle meets the trans. Turns out the leaking anti-freeze was fooling me. Fixed heater hose. Surprisingly easy.

I'll try to get there this weekend.

Barry
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